With the summer heat blaring down on us, it is time that change our look to accommodate as we do every year. But, have you given a thought to changing your makeup routine for the summer? There are some great ways to get a natural look that will fare better with the hot weather and allow you to still look absolutely fabulous.
A spot of shine on the high points of the face exaggerates bone structure to make all your features pop in an elegant way.
Reigning makeup artists, perhaps both in response to and rebellion against the pervasiveness of matte – did a supersaturated, opaque red lip (itself a reaction to the saccharine overdose of gloss that preceded it) not feel like the official beauty emblem of polished, strong femininity over the past few years? – are now tempering the look strategically placing high-shine effects on lids and cheeks. Says Boehmer, “When it’s in used in little touches, it’s a great way to accentuate and add light to a feature. When it’s everywhere, it looks like you’re sweaty.” Maybelline New York global makeup artist Yadim says the impact of good gloss is all in how, and where, you wield it: “A hint of dewiness on the cheeks is youthful, but punch it up and it reads more athletic. A spot of shine on high points of the face exaggerates bone structure to make all your features pop in an elegant way. Shine on the lids is playful.
On the fall 2016 runways of Valentino, DKNY, and Marchesa, skin itself went high shine; the look, Boehmer says, was “like the skin had heat to it and was a little steamy, like you’ve just come out of a sauna.” Makeup pros are very good at MacGyvering that effect using old-school backstage staples such as Vaseline (the glow it gives when smoothed over skin is terrific; its petroleum base on your pores, not so terrific) and Aquaphor; Yadim repurposed Maybelline New York Baby Lips gloss on models’ lids at DKNY. yes, Kate Moss is said to sometimes sweep Vaseline over her lids in lieu of eye shadow, but I’ll stick to the recent batch of eye-specific glosses, which are way more comfortable and zero percent goopy. A new crop of shine-bestowing products make it less daunting for mere mortals to get next-level luster home: Pat McGrath Labs Golden Shiny Stick Highlighter + Balm Duo, a duel-ended luminizer and allover balm that McGrath debuted at Valentino, imparts otherworldly radiance; Paul & Joe Beaute Eye Gloss & Lip Gloss Duo stick gives a double dose of sheen.
Ultimate glossy-lip muses are Grace Jones and, of course, Jerry Hall
By far the easiest place to wear gloss is also the most obvious – and has the sexiest connotations, if you ask McGrath, whose “ultimate glossy-lip muses are Grace Jones and, of course, Jerry Hall.” As for me, the free-association result of hearing the words lip gloss goes something like this: summer camp, first French kiss, Mandy Moore, breathless, heat, and, finally, M.A.C. Lipglass – the most valuable thing a girl in my middle school could own. For Peter Philips, the creative and image director of Dior Makeup (his shel- lacked-lip look at the maison‘s spring show verged on blinding), lip gloss conjures “the gesture of applying it all day long when you’re young, and the licking of your lips-it’s that teasing sexiness.”He adds that com-pared to, say, a matte red, lip gloss is “more playful. It changes; it’s this constant play of reflection of light that makes your lips look rounder and more voluptuous.”
If your own lip gloss reverie gets derailed right around “Ack, ponytail stuck to my face again,” fear not: Thanks to new formulas, it’s now possible to glisten with Jerry Hall intensity sans stickiness. Among the best is Dior Addict Ultra-Gloss, a collection of 18 dazzlingly glassy, hyaluronic acid-spiked infusions that come in clear, shimmer-flecked, and iridescent tints. “The great thing is the formula has a bit of stretch in it,” Philips says. “When you apply it, you don’t need a thick glaze. It’s very elastic and nourishing.” And then there’s lip oil! It’s a whole new thing, emerging as the latest breed of gloss-with-benefits. Julep Your Addiction Tinted Lip Oil has a base of camellia, rose hip, and avocado oils – versus glosses, which typically contain a mix of oils and other emollients – and sinks in as a face oil would, rather than coating lips, to impart low-watt gleam.
For those who like a subtler tastefulness of matte, bear in mind that gloss, too, can have a certain minimalist appeal. “I think it’s so cool if you’re doing a big eye statement, like a dirty, chunky, fucked-up mascara look, and then you do a clear lip gloss with that, because something with color could look cheesy,” says Boehmer, who favors Nars Triple X Lip Gloss for its staying power and resplendent sheen. “Clear lip gloss and black eyeliner are the perfect companions.”
Before piling it on, some lipgloss guidance: “Use gloss in the center of your lips so it stays on better, makes your lips look fuller, and creates textural depth,” Boehmer says. “You don’t need gloss migrating over the lip line, like you ate fried chicken.” If you have thin lips and you’re set on making them look fuller, Philips says to avoid dark, pigmented glosses; the color overpowers the lightreflecting quality that gives the impression of fullness. “Your lips will look like this little, thin stripe of color.” For bold color plus shine, as seen at Louis Vuitton and Kenzo, McGrath, who created the former look, painted models’ mouths a matte cranberry, then daubed a thick layer of gloss on top.